Laos Part 2: Different lives
Jun 19, 2008 Trips
It was an early morning, but everyone seemed raring to go but I was not quite sure what to expect. After all, besides some information on the couple of families we would be meeting, all I knew was that we were visiting a World Vision seed area - which basically means that they have identified the area and are working on preliminary plans but have not actually started work in the area.
The ride was long, and the four vehicles headed down south. Midway through, however, we stopped by to meet the Governor of the district, as is customary. I’m sure lots of things got lost in translation (although Soukanya did a brilliant job trying to help us understand!) but it was generally ceremonial.
What was most significant, however, was that I was (politely) told off for wearing my cap in the Governor’s building - a sign of disrespect. None was intended.
The journey from there towards the first village was bumpy, to say the least. It would be a sign of road conditions to come, although at that particular point - almost three hours of dirt road - I didn’t imagine it could get any worse.
Thank goodness we didn’t get stuck … on the first day, that is.
Still, we were fortunate to have four-wheel drives. The Governor had earlier mentioned that some villages were totally blocked out during the rainy season. It is actually rainy season in Laos at the moment although the skies were merciful to us. It stopped being so understanding when everyone left - I had extended my trip by a few days and it rained quite a bit.
I won’t write too much about the conditions of the villages, or the people I’ve met. I have, after all, got to keep some material for my article to be published in Youth2 (next Wednesday in StarTwo). I am hoping that this series of posts about Laos will culminate on that day.
We met a lot of villagers that day but were directly introduced to two families. One was Mr Tee’s - he has nine children, one of whom was born just a day before we arrived, and another given away because he could not afford to maintain so many children. The other was that of Mrs Chok’s, who lives in the village with her two daughters, one of whom, like her, has an eye condition that would probably not heal as they cannot afford medical care.
(Left) Pam and Joy, two children of Mr Tee’s. (Right) Torp, who can only see using one eye.
At the village, too, we were introduced to the Basi ceremony for the first time. It was quite spectacular, if you ask me, although the villagers (through Soukanya), kept mentioning that this was only a simple ceremony but all they can offer us as a welcome and gratitude.
I missed most of the ceremony as I was filming at Mr Tee’s house (yes, also available on The Star Online from Wednesday) but when the few of us showed up, we were greeted by the village elders who, while mumbling under their breath what I can only imagine are well wishes, tied bunches of white strings around our wrist. I looked around and noticed that Michael and Susan, who were “leading” our delegation had the most number of strings.
Michael (right), Susan (second from right) together with the rest of the village elders,
during the Basi ceremony.
Over the course of the next few days, we would participate in four Basi ceremonies and I finally got to experience what it was like. It starts off with a speech by the village leader. Then everyone was invited to touch the bottom of this large plate consisting of some food, fruits and flower-arrangement looking thing (to which many bunches of white strings were hanging off) while the elders chanted.
Those of us who couldn’t make it to the front just needed to touch the elbow of someone in front of us (or just any part of the body alternatively) as the well wishes would flow through our bodies. It was the most interesting concept.
It was evening by the time we left, after spending about an hour playing with the kids in the school. Most of us took a backseat as Michael, handed out gifts (he had brought the kids school bags, stationeries and a brand new blackboard!) and played a game of Monkey using new footballs and volleyballs he had donated as well.
Playing with the new toys Michael donated.
We were mostly silent when we left, at least the car I was in with Joanne and Lee Bee, partially because we were tired and also because we were contemplative about what we had just seen. Or maybe it was just me.
But it was too early to react. This was only our second day.
Update: There are six parts to this travelogue. Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6
10.10am Laos Time (+7 GMT)
Tags: guang liang, Khammouane, laos, michael wong, world vision
Laos Part 1: Driving on the right side
Jun 17, 2008 Trips
“We are driving on the right side of the road.
“Woah.”
That was the first thought that hit me as Thongvience, the man who would drive us around for the next five days, set off from Wattay Airport in Vientiane for Tha Khek.
Our flight from LCCT got delayed but it wasn’t too bad.
It was strange being in an Asian country, and as a passenger, sitting on the side I would usually drive from. Of course, having done my homework (i.e. read my Lonely Planet guide), I know (suspect?) that this was something the French left behind when they departed decades ago.
My schedule over the next five and half day had been set. I am in Laos as part of the World Vision Malaysia media delegation to visit some areas the international NGO is developing. Besides me, there were four other members of the media, Yee Lee and Lucent from 8TV and (although they would join us a day later) Yen Hau and Owen Yap from Sin Chew Jit Poh.
Susan and Joanne from WV Malaysia were the coordinators while four others - Michael Wong (or Guang Liang as the Taiwan-based Malaysian singer is more commonly known to his fans) , his manager Sam and two assistants Suet Ping and Wan Ting made up 11.
We were traveling towards Tha Khek district, accompanied by WV Laos’ Soukanya and Lee Bee. Tha Khek, located in the Khamouane province is more than four hours away from Lao capital city Vientiane. The four four-wheel drive vehicles we took was a sign of the road conditions to come throughout the trip.
That’s our driver paying the toll. There’s no booths, just a man standing
in the middle of the road collecting money.
We did not do much on the first day, a couple of “pee-breaks” - the first one of the WV district offices and the rest as “strategic” stops (read: anywhere we could hide behind bushes and trees).
The 8TV duo has their cameras switched on most of the time - they were filming for a documentary on the trip to be shown in conjunction with the World Vision 30-Hour Famine campaign of which Guang Liang is the Ambassador, and Owen, one of the Angels.
At one of the World Vision district offices, the staff there asked Michael for a picture.
Although relatively uneventful, the first day gave me an impression of what to expect from Lao people - the road towards Tha Khek was tarred yet the journey was reminiscent of one of my childhood drives with the family down to Singapore. The small provinces reminded me of the small towns Ayer Hitam and Yong Peng 20 years ago.
The ride in itself was interesting. I find it ironic that they drive on the right side of the road because, not wanting to use any puns about right and wrong, the drivers in Laos are the craziest drivers I have seen in my life. We spent a good 40% of that five-hour drive on the left side (or the wrong side) not only due to overtaking, but because apparently, well, they can.
Every so often, I find my hand grabbing the door handle in fear (it was like an extreme game of chicken - except that I did not agree to play!) but that drive had convinced me that I was in good, if not noisy, hands.
Why noisy? Well, let’s just say that Thongviene loved the car horn as much as the next Malaysian. But true to their nature of being gentle, easy-going and polite, it wasn’t used aggressively, but as a warning. If the honk could talk, it would be saying: “Move away please. I don’t want to knock you down.”
Of course, I saw much more during the drive but I think I’ll leave that for later. This post is the first of 10 parts on my trip to Laos. While it is, in a way, a chronological journal (it’s a 10 day trip, after all) I will be making references to different experiences throughout the trip instead of a day-to-day narrative.
Our accomodation for Days 1 and 2.
After having read so much about it, this is my first experience with the Mekong.
And what a beauty it is.
I haven’t yet gotten the chance to upload pictures - the connections here at the cybercafés are pretty slow - but I will do it once I get the chance. Hope you enjoy the few I have currently up here.
Kop Chai (thank you) for dropping by.
Update: There are six parts to this travelogue. Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6
8.59pm Laos time (+7 GMT)
Tags: 30-Hour Famine, 8TV, guang liang, Khammouane, laos, michael wong, Owen Yap, Sin Chew Jit Poh, Tha Khek, Vientiane, Wattay Airport, world vision
Sabaidee from Laos
Jun 15, 2008 Uncategorized
It’s day six of my trip here and I’m alone right now. Which is not the most amazing feeling considering I’ve spent the past few days with a bunch of truly amazing people - even if we were spending 24/7 together.
But I’m spending money I shouldn’t on Beer Lao just to use the Internet at this restaurant (the cyber cafes are so stuffy and dark - yes, I’m difficult, sue me), so I will keep this short.
This is a short note to say Sabaidee! I am currently in Unesco World Heritage Site Luang Prabang in the northern part of Laos, although I have been spending the past few days in the sourthern part.
I’ve got lots of stories, and pictures to share, but I think that will need to wait until I come back on Thursday. I know I promised a journal of sorts but Laos is just to precious to waste anymore time on the computer.
4.30pm Lao time (+7 GMT)
Taking flight - Hi Laos!
Jun 10, 2008 Announcements
A few days ago, I posted a message here asking people for some tips on my Laos trip. Thanks for the replies I got on here, and some to my email and Facebook.
Well, folks, today’s the day. Barely got any sleep last night trying to finish up my work but I’m up anyway, and will be heading to the airport in about 45 minutes.
I’m not sure what kind of access I will have to the Internet - I’m not sure the smaller areas I’m heading to have cybercafes :P - but I’ll come on here and say hi as and when possible, so do check back occasionally.
I will be compiling posts for my trip - and hope to give a day by day travel account by the end of it, using text, images and video.
See you guys real soon!
5.14am Malaysian time (+8 GMT)
KL drivers - The best in the world?
Jun 9, 2008 Rantings
You know how some people always say KL drivers are the best drivers in the world?
Well, sarcastically speaking, yes we are. After all, don’t other people often say:
“If you can drive in KL, you can drive anywhere in the world.”
Well, not true. A couple of years ago, during a visit to Penang after many, many years, I almost died sitting in a car driven by my friend. I, therefore, declared Penang drivers the best in the world. My words were of course immortalised in my The Bangsar Boy column back then.
I don’t know who “some people” or “other people” are but even I, admittedly, have on occasion made these references myself. But maybe I’m not wrong. Take my conversation with Wyn, a friend of mine who has just migrated to Australia, via MSN yesterday.
Wyn: Tuesday I have to go for driving test.
Niki: Aiks, you no license, meh?
W: Want to get local license. That day went already the angmoh tester fail me man.
N: How come can fail?
W: Because he say I never stop properly at Stop sign and roundabout.
N: Oh, yeah lor. Last time I study there almost kena saman for not fully stopping at the Stop sign. Very hard to explain to them that in Malaysia, you slow down at Stop sign. If no car, you no need to brake, just go. If got car, you press accelerator go even further!
So that was my lame attempt at a joke. I don’t know if you guys got it, or thought it was funny, but I think she did ‘cos she used her ROFL emoticon on me.
Yup, cheap thrills. Sigh. :P Good luck tomorrow, Wyn!
5.47pm Malaysian time (+8 GMT)
Tags: driving, driving lessons, KL drivers, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysian drivers, penang, stop sign
